As long time fan of all type of glossies (from Adweek to Zeit, with a full scope of women-focused ones included), I have concluded that in the era when people are not willing to pay for information (New York Times' pay wall challenges as a one example) they do still see value in beautiful photographs (a September Issue of any magazine will trump all the Pinning you might have done). I believe that print magazines, as long as the stick to the aesthetic of coffee books, will thrive. Net a Porter appears to share this opinion as they have has just launched a first issue of magazine/catalog Porter (see a great overview of the launch via WSJ). There are, however, several reasons why it might not work out for them and instead it is L.L. Bean that should start thinking of setting up a masthead. Companies are flirting with idea of marrying commerce and print as illustrated by a recent re-launch of shop-able Domino magazine. And needless to say, our mailboxes have been clogged with catalogs for decades. It is tempting and quite business savvy to explore the well proven concept. And who else but L.L. Bean - the ultimate king of catalog purchases to actually take a plunge and sell turtlenecks via beautiful lifestyle spreads and stories of Buffy wearing one of those during her engagement brunch and later during the 25 year marriage anniversary. L.L. Bean has been popular since forever and survived many economic turns because of the good quality of its goods and the never dying love all thing prep among the consumers. The Prep Handbook by Lisa Birnbach is still relevant and discussed, decades past its first print. Considering the number of prep blogs alone, it appears to be a unquenchable thirst for all things WASP-y (and to some degree Southern). For L.L. Bean to venture into this topic and fully establish itself as a connoisseur of all things preppy it would be to grab a major market share. L.L. Bean catalogs (unlike Porter) already offer close ups of clothes to make it less a fantasy read and more like a Pinterest 'To Buy Later' board. Also, unlike Porter, L.L. Bean does not have to cover in its magazine all kinds of styles and address needs of very diversified customers. L.L. Bean magazine can simply list camping trip musts, rather write about clothes for an Ambassador Bash, island getaway AND a presentation to that Dubai client.
Would I suggest: Lisa Birnbach as the Editor at Large? Definitely! I could probably offer couple other names (prep fans know who those folks are), along with some ideas for stories (Cozy days with Your Collie or how to Accessorize Your Outfit with Your Dog's// College Tours - Keep Calm , Stylish and Warm ?) But first and foremost, I can promise that I would faithfully buy every issue (even thought as a long time L.L. Bean customer I might have been eligible for a free one with a purchase.) I cannot say the same about Porter.
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Coach has just presented the first collection under the new creative eye of Stuart Vevers at #NYFW 2014; one that could have been called “Extreme (Minimalism) Makeover.” Coupled with the website new offerings, the company seems to be moving from Juicy Couture – Prep Edition aesthetic of last years to a more reserved look. It’s almost as if Ashley and Mary Kate of The Row took over Betsey Johnson’s empire. A longtime fan of Reed Krakoff’s style (more so in his new line and private life), I looked on with a dismay how the white collar working woman’s go to place seemed to turn into the teens who lunch type of retail destination. When adolescents (as measured by real or emotional age) start to prefer your designs (Snooki with her Coach and Gucci bags; Jessica Simpson with the now infamous loads of LV arm candy), it most often means a quick buck in exchange for a long term brand devaluation. A devil’$ deal, indeed. Combined with too many factory/warehouse outlets, Coach began to really live up to its namesake travel class: a place where people from lower and middle parts of the societal hierarchy collide. The new look championed by Stuart Vevers seems to be a right shift and in line with the concerns presented in the current discussion on the perils of the democratization of luxury. Will a grandma and her teen grandkids both share the liking for the new like Coach bags? Not when they are that sleek and understated. Poppy followers may still get their logo kick via the jewelry line; but those trinkets are not as visible brand signaling as anything tailored out of the Signature fabric. In other words, it seems that Coach fans should get ready to travel in style that is less reminiscent of Louis XVI and more of the sleek Hermes carriage. Bon voyage!
As the technology changes, the metaphors for human brain (and by extension mind or consciousness) change; quite consistently those similes reflect the science interpretations/inventions of de jour (sponge, water clock, switchboard, computer and/or its software). Is a smartphone metaphor not far behind? The general sentiment behind it is however that the brain is a tool we use.
Who is we? If we is not the brain, then it means that the rest of our body (or anything but the brain) is the initial user. If those linguistic parables actually reflect the true nature of that relationship, it is no longer a case of a ghost in a machine, but a machine running itself with a help of another machine. Who is the mechanic, then? Is there one? (Depicting God as Steve Jobs of our smartphone- like minds might sex up the spiritual PR). Why is there a machine? |